DIY Sliding Doors – A Guide to Building Them

The sliding doors are commonly being used in the homes and offices as they provide excellent efficiency and ease of access. And they make many things easier for you. There are many amazing features of sliding doors due to which it has become very popular. If you’re looking to install the sliding doors in your home, you may simply get in touch with the experts so that they can handle the job for you or you can also try to build your own sliding doors if you have all the essential tools available.

The tools are extremely important for building the sliding doors as they make the process easier for you. So, before you start the process of building your own Sliding Doors, you must make sure that all the important tools are available in your toolkit and if some tools are lacking, you must consider buying them before starting the process.

In this article, we’ll take you through the process of building your own sliding doors and we’ll mention a few important elements that are important to keep in mind. Here is a brief guide to building the DIY sliding doors.

The design of door

Choosing the design of the door is not a big deal as sliding doors are almost similar to the other types of doors. The only difference that makes them prominent from all other types of doors is that they are hanged with a steep shaft while the other doors are mounted to the wall. You may simply choose any design you want and then start trying your skills on that piece.

The sliding equipment

The sliding equipment should be selected with proper care because this equipment is going to add more strength and functionality to your doors. For example, if you’re looking to buy the screws and bolts for hanging your sliding doors, you must consider buying the best Screws and Bolts – sliding door harware kits. Let’s see the process of building sliding doors.

Add wheels to the frame

You can either buy the doors from a manufacturer or you may design them by yourself. Once the frame is prepared, it’s time to add the wheels to the frame because the wheels will help in smoothly sliding the door from one direction to another.

Add the hinges

Now, it’s time for adding the hinges to your sliding door because hinges will keep your door completely aligned. The hinges will also hold your door carefully so that it may operate properly without any misbalance.

Mount the pipe

Now, you should mount the pipe on the wall that will be used to hang the sliding door with the help of hinges. This pipe should be strong enough to bear the weight of the door otherwise, your door will fall on the ground due to a bad quality pipe. Click here and take a look at some other tips on building the sliding doors.…

Roofing Tips and Tricks

Roofing project matters a lot when you’re looking to improve the quality of your home. Most of the people consider hiring the experts for the roofing project while there are others that prefer doing this job on their own. In this article, we’re going to share some valuable tips with you that will help you complete your roofing project successfully.

Safety

Your safety is extremely important when you’re working on a roofing project. You must avoid finding a leak in the roof if it is covered with the ice or if it is raining outside.

You may suffer from the dangerous situation when looking to fix a leak temporarily. You must take the appropriate time to fix if you want to make sure that it is fixed properly.

Wait for the perfect weather and condition before you jump into addressing a roofing project.

Take precautions

Your body is in an uncomfortable and unsafe position when you’re working on a roofing project. You need to take all the safety precautions before working on the roof. In order to prevent slipping, make sure that you wear the rubber sole shoes. Working with a partner is highly recommend and don’t forget to use a harness.

Spray the roof

If you’re looking to find the leakage area, the best way is to spray some water on the roof. You may take help from the garden hose to spray the water on the roof. This will help you find the leak in a quick and appropriate way. Do not take the risk of spraying water during the winter because the water may freeze out which may make the surface slippery for you.

Keep the Gutters Clean

The clogged gutters are one of the major causes for roof leaks. The water would start building up during the rain inside the gutters that have not been cleaned.

Avoid Dry Rot

The lack of ventilation is the major reason behind the dry rot. There may be some problem in the plywood if the roof repair is right in the middle of the roof. The roof shingles would start leaking due to this problem. You may take help from the Round Rock Roofer on Yelp if you don’t have any idea of how to fix this problem properly.

Fix Roof Boots

Skylights, ice damping, roofing, and flashing are all obvious areas for potential leaks. Rubber boots are often missed by most of the people. The dried up roof boots may cause the major leaks. You may have to remove a few shingles to fix this problem.

Eliminate Leaks

If you’re unable to find the leak, don’t be discouraged. It’s a process of elimination. You need to keep searching using different ways and techniques. All you need to do is eliminating the leaks that you have found and then start searching for others.…

SANITARY SEWERS

Sanitary sewers are conduits that carry liquid and water-carried wastes from homes, commercial facilities, industrial plants and institutions to a treatment plant for the express purpose of protecting our environment, safeguarding health, and improving our comforts and quality of life.

Concrete pipe is the most widely used and accepted permanent product of all sanitary sewer materials. It makes up the greater portion of the sanitary sewer system in most major cities in the United States. Sanitary sewers require that pipe meet infiltration limits, meet the strength conditions of any depth of backfill and superimposed load, and provide resistance to the effects of sewage.

Recommended Standard Specification

1. Scope

1.1 – This specification covers reinforced concrete pipe intended to be used for the conveyance of waste water.

2. Referenced Documents

2.1 ASTM Standards:

C 76     Reinforced Concrete Culvert, Storm Drain, and Sewer Pipe
C 361   Reinforced Concrete Low-Head Pressure Pipe
C 443   Joints for Circular Concrete Sewer and Culvert Pipe, Using Rubber Gaskets
C 655   Reinforced Concrete D-Load Culvert, Storm Drain, and Sewer Pipe
C 822   Definitions of Concrete Pipe and Related Products
C 969   Infiltration and Exfiltration Acceptance Testing
C 1103 Joint Acceptance Testing of Installed Pre-cast Concrete Pipe Sewer Lines

3. Terminology

3.1 Definitions – For definitions of terms relating to concrete pipe, see Definitions C 822.

4. Materials

4.1   Reinforced Concrete Pipe – Reinforced concrete pipe shall be manufactured in accordance with ASTM C 76 or ASTM C 655. The manufacturer of the reinforced concrete pipe shall be on the Illinois Department of Transportation’s “List of Certified Plants.”
4.2   Pipe Class – The class of pipe shall be as shown on the plans.
4.3   Lift Holes – Lift holes shall not be permitted.
4.4   Joints – Joints shall conform to ASTM C 443 or C 361.
4.5   Gaskets – The gaskets shall be installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. Prior to commencing installation, the contractor shall submit to the engineer:

4.5.1 – Manufacturer’s literature on the type of gasket to be used.
4.5.2 – Manufacturer’s literature on the type of lubricant to be used.
4.5.3 – Manufacturer’s recommended installation procedures, including equalization techniques.

4.6 Fittings – Fittings shall conform to the strength and water tightness requirements placed upon mainline pipe.

5. Excavation

5.1 Trench Depth – The trench shall be excavated to a firm foundation at least 4 inches below the bottom of the pipe so that the flow line of the finished sewer will be at the depth and grade specified by the engineer.

5.2 Trench Width – For trench depths of less than 5 ft. and when sheeting or shoring is not required, the trench shall be excavated 18 inches wider than the external diameter of the pipe. For trench depths of 5 ft. or more and when sheeting or shoring is required, the trench width shall be 3 ft. wider than the external diameter of the pipe.

6. Bedding

6.1 – Bedding material (pea gravel, crushed stone or washed gravel with at least 95% passing the 1″ sieve) shall be placed at least 4″ thick on the bottom of the trench. If any unyielding foundation is encountered, the minimum thickness shall be increased to 8 inches.

7. Installation

7.1 Handling – The contractor shall handle the pipe with care and avoid chipping or cracking the pipe.

7.2 Laying Pipe – The contractor shall keep the trench free from water during installation. The laying of pipe shall proceed upgrade, with spigot or tongue ends pointing in the direction of flow. The ends of the pipe shall be carefully cleaned before they are lowered into the trench. Each pipe shall be carefully aligned horizontally and vertically with the previous pipe and the joint pulled home. Care shall be taken to assure the gasket remains in its intended position.

8. Backfilling

8.1 Haunch – As soon as possible the entire width of the trench shall be backfilled with pea gravel, crushed stone or washed gravel (with at least 95% passing the 1″ sieve) to the pipe springline. Special care shall be taken to completely fill the space under the pipe. A flowable backfill mixture, described as controlled low strength material (CLSM), may be used.

8.2 Backfill – The remainder of the trench shall be backfilled to the natural grade or finished surface. This material may consist of material excavated from the trench. Care shall be taken to avoid disturbing the pipe.

8.3 Special Considerations – In areas where the trench will be under pavements, curbs, shoulders, sidewalks or other structures, granular material will be used to fill the entire trench. The granular material will be placed and compacted to the satisfaction of the engineer. A flowable CLSM may be used when high relative densities are desired.

9. Acceptance Testing

9.1 Types of Testing – Testing for acceptance of reinforced concrete pipe shall be conducted by one of the following methods:

9.1.1 – Water exfiltration, ASTM C 969
9.1.2 – Water infiltration, ASTM C 969
9.1.3 – Joint testing, ASTM C 1103

9.2 Test Sections – Unless otherwise specified or directed by the engineer, the first 1200 feet (or the entire length if the project is less than 1200 feet) shall be tested before additional excavation is permitted. If the initial section does not pass, it shall be repaired and retested until a satisfactory result is obtained. Excavation shall not proceed beyond the first 1200-foot section until satisfactory results are obtained.

In the event the first 1200-foot section did not pass the test on the first trial, the next section of sanitary sewer approximately 1200 feet long shall also be tested, repaired if necessary, and restored until a satisfactory result is obtained. Additional excavation shall not be started until this section has passed.

When favorable test results are obtained on the first trial for a full 1200-foot section, the engineer may designate additional sections for testing. The engineer reserves the right to select the location and lengths of additional test sections. All testing will be performed within 30 days of backfilling.

9.3 Water Exfiltration – The test shall be conducted in accordance with ASTM C 969.
9.4 Water Infiltration – The test shall be conducted in accordance with ASTM C 969.
9.5 Joint Acceptance Testing – The test shall be conducted in accordance with ASTM C 1103

For SANITARY SEWERS Construction and How They Build SANITARY SEWERS. Click Here.

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